Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
